Each February, the capital of Tenerife throws one of the greatest parties on the planet. The Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife is often called the second-largest carnival in the world after Rio de Janeiro, and the city has a twin-city agreement with Rio to prove it. For two weeks, Santa Cruz becomes a riot of costumes, music, dancing and all-night street parties.
The carnival has two faces. The "official" carnival is the glittering, organised side: the election of the Carnival Queen in her towering, jewelled costumes (some weigh over 150 kg and move on wheels), the grand parades, and the murgas and comparsas — the satirical singing groups and samba troupes that compete fiercely. The "street" carnival is the other half: the whole city in fancy dress, dancing in the plazas until dawn.
Key dates to plan around: the main week usually falls in February (the dates shift with the calendar, tied to Lent). The highlights are the Opening Parade, the Carnival Queen gala, the enormous Shrove Tuesday parade (the Coso), and the famous, surreal "Burial of the Sardine" that closes the festivities. There is also a daytime carnival so families and all ages can take part.
If you want to go, book early — accommodation in and around Santa Cruz fills up months in advance and prices jump. Many visitors stay in the southern resorts and travel up for the big nights; it is about an hour by car or bus, and there are extra late services during carnival. Bring a costume: in Santa Cruz during carnival, not dressing up is the only way to stand out.
Carnival is the headline, but Tenerife's calendar is full. Other towns hold their own carnivals (Puerto de la Cruz's is famous too), and the island celebrates through the year with religious fiestas, the spectacular Corpus Christi flower carpets in La Orotava, and summer romerÃas.
Visiting outside February? You do not need carnival for a lively night out. The southern resorts have a buzzing scene year-round, and Fun Zone in Playa Las Americas adds a different kind of evening — axe throwing, quiz battles and escape games that get any group going before the bars.
However you time it, Tenerife knows how to celebrate. If carnival is on your bucket list, plan around February and book ahead — and fill the rest of the trip from our things to do in Tenerife page.